Here I was in Japan's busiest commuter station, served by more than a half-dozen train and subway lines and as many as 60 exits, and I couldn't find a sign in English to direct me to where I wanted to go.

Shinjuku was the birthplace of Tokyo's first skyscraper, way back in 1971, but in the past decade highrises have mushroomed all over the metropolis. Some of these newcomers house plush hotels, while many more boast tony restaurants with spectacular views on their top floors.