Secrets of Shimanami Kaido: When the Ride is As Good As the Destination
Four Fun Things to See and Do While Cycling
How far is 70km by bike? That's like pedalling from downtown Kuala Lumpur to Seremban. It's a breeze for regular cyclists. But for those who rarely cycle, the 70km long Shimanami Kaido is definitely a worthy challenge.
This route connects eight islands between Honshu’s Hiroshima Prefecture and Shikoku‘s Ehime Prefecture with each bridge having a different design. The scenery of clear water and green islands is so remarkably beautiful that it is rated as one of the top seven cycling routes in the world.
Shimanami Kaido is best enjoyed at your own pace. Doing it over two or three days while staying overnight on the islands is ideal for experiencing the art, food, nature, or culture of the Seto Inland Sea.
Here are some memorable things you can see and do while cycling along Shimanami Kaido.
Enjoy all the art and architecture
The Hill of Hope
Art fans, rejoice — Shimanami Kaido is home to a mind-boggling amount of art and architecture. One of the most popular is The Hill of Hope, a 5,000 square meter white Italian marble sculpture garden created by Kazuto Kuetani. Located behind Kousanji Temple on Ikuchijima, this is the one to visit when on a tight schedule.
Hirayama Ikuo Museum of Art
Those with more time to spare can walk to the Hirayama Ikuo Museum of Art nearby. It showcases many charming watercolour paintings from the artist’s extensive oeuvre. Ikuchijima itself is also home to 17 artworks installed during the Setoda Biennale in 1989, and you can spend a good afternoon cycling around to find them all.
Tokoro Museum Omishima
Lastly, contemporary art lovers shouldn’t miss the Tokoro Museum Omishima on the western side of Omishima. Opened in 2004, the Hideaki Yamamoto-designed building has a deceptively understated exterior belying its tasteful, airy interior. It’s art from the get-go, beginning with Noe Katz’s “Kissing Doors” and followed by a series of sculpture-filled galleries built on a downward slope, everything illuminated by natural light shining softly through the domed roof of latticed cedar slats. Best of all, the bottom of the museum opens onto a spacious veranda, where you can sip coffee on the terrace and watch the sun go down.
Location information
Onomichi port – Setoda port (ferry 35 minutes)
Onomichi port – Setoda port (ferry 35 minutes)
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Eat all the ice cream
Shimanami Kaido is famous for its seafood, but did you know that it also offers a variety of excellent ice cream? You can and should try them all — after all, everyone knows that calories consumed while cycling don’t count.
With branches in front of Kousanji Temple and on Ikuchijima, Shimanami Dolce gelato shop is a firm favourite among cyclists. The seasonal citrus gelatos here like Setoda lemon and Hassaku orange are especially tasty and refreshing. Salt and orange cream is also a great combination when available.
Those visiting Yoshiumi Rose Park might want to make some room for their rose-flavoured offerings, particularly the rosehip sorbet. Further along on Hakatajima, the salt-flavoured soft serve ice cream sold exclusively at the Hakata S.C. Park is another crowd favourite. The sweet vanilla with a hint of salt is surprisingly addictive; the chocolate-salt soft serve is equally delicious.
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Enjoy a gorgeous sunset or two
The Shimanami Kaido is beautiful all day long, but watching the sun set over the islands is particularly special.
If you’re staying on Ikuchijima, the 800-meter-long Setoda “Sunset” Beach is excellent for a classic seaside sunset. As a bonus, you can camp or barbecue at the beach and there are also three large art installations to enjoy.
More energetic cyclists may consider pedalling up to Kirosan Observatory Park on Oshima Island. It’s a stiff climb up a 300-meter-tall mountain, but the reward is a stunning 360-degree panoramic view of the islands and surrounding Inland Sea at the top.
Lastly, watching the sunset as you’re cycling over one of the Shimanami Kaido bridges is an unparalleled experience. When the weather is just right, the golden sunset from Tatara Bridge is a sight to behold.
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Where to stay
The islands have many inns to choose from. Here are two suggestions.
SOIL Setoda
Partially set in a renovated Meiji-period storehouse, the stylish SOIL Setoda is one of the newer accommodations on Shimanami Kaido. The rooms are elegantly outfitted, with gorgeous ocean views of Shiomachi Port. Cafe-restaurant Minatoya on the first floor offers delicious meals made with locally sourced ingredients. There’s also a second cafe, Overview Coffee, for your caffeine fix.
I-LINK Hostel & Cafe Shimanami
A bright, charming, and cycle-friendly accommodation on Omishima Island, I-LINK Hostel has single and twin rooms in addition to mixed-gender dormitory-style rooms. The attached cafe and restaurant are open to the public, and worth trying even if you’re not staying the night.
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This list only scratches the surface of what you can see and do along Shimanami Kaido – it’s the ideal gateway to further adventures in Shikoku with a handy JR Shikoku Pass. We hope this inspires you to cycle in the Seto Inland Sea on your next trip to Japan!
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