Discovering Hokkaido’s Rich Natural and Indigenous Heritage

Hokkaido has long been home to the Ainu people, an indigenous group with their own distinct language, customs, and a cultural identity shaped by deep spiritual bonds with the land. The region also encompasses swaths of unspoiled wilderness, from pristine lakes to vast wetlands. These magnificent landscapes sustain a plethora of flora and fauna, many of them found nowhere else in the world. We paid a visit to Hokkaido to explore one of the Expo 2025’s major themes—Connecting Lives—which delves into how we can join hands and enrich society through culture and community connections. 

 

 

 

In This Article

 

• Upopoy: Showcasing Ainu history and traditions
• Lake Poroto: Embracing Ainu culture, past and present
• Kushiro Wetland: Birdwatching and hiking in a lush natural sanctuary
• Akanko Ainu Kotan: A Lakeside Ainu village marked by craftsmanship
• Kamuy Lumina: A modern retelling of Ainu folklore
• Shiretoko Nature Cruise: Encounters with marine life in Shiretoko’s bountiful waters

 

 

Upopoy: Showcasing Ainu history and traditions

Shiraoi

 

 

Upopoy—the National Ainu Museum and Park—opened its doors in 2020 as a place to preserve and celebrate Ainu culture. It sits on the shores of the tranquil Lake Poroto, enfolded by lush woodlands. Here, visitors can get insights into Ainu culture through traditional performances, storytelling, workshops, and much more.

 

Crafts Studio in Upopoy

 

Performer playing the mukkuri harp

 

At the core of Ainu philosophy is a deep reverence for nature—they believe that all things, living and nonliving, are imbued with spirits called ramat. At the museum, we were able to observe fascinating exhibits and artifacts that express this worldview, from garments crafted with plant fibers to ceremonial objects adorned with intricate details.  “The Ainu people believe that the gifts we receive from nature should not go to waste, which is why they devised ingenious ways to use all parts of a hunted animal’s body,” explained a staff member as she showed us a pair of traditional boots made with salmon skin. “The scales are waterproof and the fins are placed by the soles to provide traction, making these shoes perfect for walking in the snow,” she added. 

 

 

Ceremonial tools called inaw

 

A boot made of salmon skin

 

Upopoy is replete with activities. Learn to play the mukkuri mouth harp, try your hand at making ohaw—a hearty soup packed with seasonal ingredients—or observe artisans at work. After catching a dance performance at the outdoor stage, we joined an embroidery workshop, where we were taught how to sew a traditional Ainu motif onto a cloth bag. “You often see patterns shaped like horns and whirlpools on Ainu textiles,” says our instructor. When asked what they signify, she replied, “The meaning behind each pattern is derived from the emotions you feel when you are working on your piece.” 

 

Cloth bag embroidered with traditional motif

 

 

The word “upopoy” means singing together in a large group. It serves as a space where people from all over the world can participate in the revival and celebration of Ainu culture. Here, clusters of traditional reed and wood huts stand alongside bold contemporary architecture infused with Ainu motifs, embodying a vision of how indigenous cultures can continue to thrive in the modern age. 

 

Traditional Ainu huts

 

National Ainu Museum

 

 

Lake Poroto: Embracing Ainu culture, past and present

 Shiraoi

 

 

Lake Poroto’s name is derived from Ainu words meaning “big lake.” Once home to Ainu settlements, this pristine water body is the ideal backdrop for an array of outdoor activities: In the warmer months, visitors can paddle along the gentle waters on a canoe, soaking in the lush scenery from a unique vantage point. In winter, when the surface of the lake freezes over, try your hand at ice fishing. Trails run along the shore, perfect for a quiet morning stroll. 

 

 

On its southern shore sits Hoshino Resorts KAI Poroto, a beautiful hotel that pays tribute to Ainu culture. As we stepped in, we were greeted by rows of white birch trunks and the soothing gurgles of spring water. The concierge tells us that this was to evoke the feeling of being inside a forest. An enormous fireplace in the center of the lobby serves as a cozy gathering spot, a nod to the Ainu tradition of sitting around a hearth. Traditional Ainu motifs, artwork, and decor adorn each room, allowing guests to fully immerse themselves in the local culture. 

 

Fireplace surrounded by white birch trunks

 

Ainu motifs can be found all around the hotel

 

Lake Poroto from the balcony

 

The bathhouse is an architectural masterpiece, with its distinct cone shape drawing inspiration from traditional Ainu huts. Housed inside are moor springs—a rare kind of hot spring filled with minerals from organic plant matter. Lauded for its healing properties, the water has a distinctive dark amber hue that shimmers beautifully in sunlight. The outdoor bath affords stunning views of Lake Poroto and Mount Tarumae in the distance—it is designed in a way so that bathers feel as if they are floating on top of the lake itself. 

 

The bathhouse is inspired by Ainu architecture

 

Outdoor bath

 

At KAI Poroto, you can join a workshop to craft an Ainu-inspired herbal amulet, or mix your own herbal tea blend to enjoy by the fireplace. For dinner, we were treated to Daigo Nabe, the hotel's signature hotpot piled high with local seafood such as horsehair crab, salmon, and scallops, along with delicate tapas-style dishes prepared with seasonal ingredients. The tray’s unique shape is inspired by wooden boats used by the Ainu people.

 

Preparing a herbal mix

 

Daigo Nabe and seasonal tapas

 

Before we checked out, the concierge pointed us to two wooden boats that were sitting on the pond outside, explaining that they are placed there just as guests leave as a symbol of good luck for the journey ahead. 

 

 

 

Kushiro Wetlands: Birdwatching and hiking in a lush natural sanctuary

 Kushiro

 

 

The Kushiro Wetlands, Japan’s largest wetland, sit in the eastern part of Hokkaido. This vast, untouched landscape is home to over 2,000 species of flora and fauna, many of which are native to the area. It is best known for housing Japan’s largest population of endangered red-crowned cranes, revived through concerted conservation efforts in the past few decades. We paid a visit to the Kushiro Marsh Observatory on a warm summer day to spot the season’s birds, flowers, and butterflies.

 

Red-crowned crane

 

The verdant walkway to the satellite observatory

 

A wooden walkway winds under thick groves of maple and oak, taking visitors from the main observatory to a satellite observatory. During the walk, our guide pointed out an array of plants and wildflowers, mentioning, “I feel that just spending a few hours walking in nature each day can add a few years to your life.”  In summer, parts of the marsh are awash with color as daylilies, irises, and cotton grass burst into bloom. We were told to keep our ears perked for birdcall—summer visitors include the black-browed reed warbler and the stonechat. While we were eager to spot cranes, our guide explained that it’s incredibly rare to spot them in the wild during this time of the year. “But you will often see deer wandering these grounds from time to time,” she says. During our walk, we were fortunate enough to come across a tanuki—a raccoon dog which, according to old Japanese folklore, has magical powers. 

 

A young tanuki spotted by the walkway

 

After a pleasant 30-minute stroll, we arrived at the satellite observatory where we were treated to sweeping views of the wetland. “The land you see before you was once under the sea. It was formed incredibly slowly over millennia, accumulating only 1 mm of peat every year,” our guide explained. She also talked about how the value of the Kushiro Wetlands is not just in sustaining wildlife, but also the role it plays in absorbing substantial amounts of carbon dioxide. Spending time here helped us recognize how irreplaceable these delicate ecosystems are—and served as a reminder how now, more than ever, we need to play our part in preserving places like this for future generations. 

 

View from satellite observatory

 

 

 

Akanko Ainu Kotan: A Lakeside Ainu village

Akanko Onsen

 

 

Lake Akan is a tranquil caldera lake that sits under the shadow of Mount Akan. Sitting on its south shore is the Akanko Ainu Kotan—one of the largest Ainu settlements in Hokkaido.  The current inhabitants were gifted the land so that they would have a place to practice their lifestyle and pass on their traditions. Here, visitors can meet Ainu artisans, watch traditional performances, and savor Ainu cuisine, all surrounded by lush primeval woodlands filled with Sakhalin fir, Yezo spruce, and Erman’s birch.

 

 

Traditional crafts can be seen all around the settlement

 

Akanko Ainu Kotan is replete with symbols that honor the natural world. Perched upon tall arches, you will find intricately carved statues of the Blakiston’s fish owl—it is believed to be the guardian deity of the settlement. The streets are lined with craft shops displaying beautiful handmade pieces with elaborate designs, from embroidered handkerchiefs to woodwork in motifs sacred to the Ainu people. We had the opportunity to meet an acclaimed Ainu embroiderer, who spoke to us about the philosophy behind her work. “When working on a piece, I try to approach it with a pure and clear mind, so that no negative thoughts get trapped between the threads. It’s also important for me to pour in gratitude for all those involved in bringing my creation to life, from the plant that provided the fiber, to the person who made the needle.”

 

Speaking to an acclaimed local embroider

 

 

The word “kotan” means community in the Ainu language. Only a few decades ago, the area was home to a handful of Ainu families. Now, it has over one hundred inhabitants who have come together to uphold rich traditions that were cultivated over the centuries. This visit made us feel that Akanko Ainu Kotan is one of those places that truly reflect the power of community bonds.

 

Chatting with a local

 

 

 

Kamuy Lumina: A modern retelling of Ainu folklore

Akanko Onsen

 

 

“We were entrusted with this land to keep the Ainu culture alive,” said one of the locals during our stay in Akanko Ainu Kotan. “One way we are trying to do that is by re-interpreting it through modern technology.” A great example is Lost Kamuy, a stunning theatrical performance in which Ainu ancient ritual dance is fused with contemporary dance and digital art. This concept is also  reflected in Kamuy Lumina—a night walk through the forests of Akan-Mashu National Park that immerses visitors in the world of Ainu folklore through projection mapping and innovative scenography.

 

Each participant receives an illuminated staff

 

The story is inspired by an Ainu folktale called the Owl & the Jaybird, in which an owl searches for a messenger to save humans from a great famine. The tranquil forest that sits by the shores of Lake Akan comes alive with glittering renditions of birds and deer projected onto tree trunks. Complemented by Ainu folk music, the experience is magical. Each participant is given an illuminated staff, which we are asked to tap to the rhythm of the music in unison, forging a sense of unity within the group.

 

 

 

This night walk was produced in collaboration with the Ainu people, a Canadian art production firm, and the Japanese government. It was designed to share the Ainu culture in a unique way with minimal impact on the environment, and a portion of the proceeds goes to preserving the local nature. This approach captures the core messages shared in the folktale itself: Respecting nature and coming together to drive change.

 

 

 

Shiretoko Nature Cruise: Encounters with marine life in Shiretoko’s bountiful waters

Rausu

 

 

The Shiretoko Peninsula gets its name from the Ainu words sir etok, meaning “the edge of the world.” True to its name, stretches of unspoiled wilderness cover this remote region. The waters surrounding Shiretoko are a treasure trove of marine life—this is thanks to an abundance of nutrients that arise from complex interactions between ocean currents and drift ice.

 

Shiretoko Nature Cruise excursion

 

The Nemuro Strait, off the eastern coast of Shiretoko, is frequented by various species of whales and dolphins. We set sail on the deep blue waters on a chilly day to observe some of the local marine inhabitants. 

 

 

Sitting on the deck of our boat, we were treated to views of Shiretoko’s mountains, fringed with mist, as well as Kunashiri Island in the distance. Not long into our journey we passed a pod of playful Dall’s porpoises. These fast swimmers are recognized by their distinct black and white markings.

 

Dall’s porpoises

 

As we approached the tip of the peninsula, the guide pointed us to a jet stream of water in the middle of the sea—it was a sperm whale blowing water, its enormous gray body as large as our boat. Sperm whales surface for about seven minutes at a time, so after some time had passed, it raised its tail fin high and plunged back dramatically into the waters. Our guide shared some interesting tidbits about this creature as we watched, “They are incredible divers, believed to go as deep as 3,000 meters. Researchers have found that most of the sperm whales that visit this area are males,” before adding with a laugh, “They also have the largest teeth in the planet.” 

 

Sperm whale blowing water

 

During our stay in Shiretoko, a local shared a story about how in 1969, a man walked for miles across the sea on drift ice. Now, 50 years on, it is not possible to do that anymore as the ice—which so much of the region’s marine creatures depend on—is not thick enough. It made us think about how important it is for each of us to play our part in mitigating the effects of climate change, so that the wildlife in places like Shireotoko can continue to flourish for years to come.

 

Conclusion 

 

“It’s important for me to pour in gratitude for all those involved in bringing my creation to life, from the plant that provided the fiber, to the person who made the needle.”  These words from the Ainu artisan touch upon the invisible connections that exist between each of us. This journey across Hokkaido highlighted the importance of nurturing these bonds to create happy communities where diverse cultures can thrive while living in harmony with nature.