Wander Through West Japan on the West Express Ginga
Discover the delights of Wakayama and the Kumano Kodo in this historic part of Japan
Japan is known for its extensive and excellent railway network, particularly the wonderfully efficient bullet trains that zip across the country. But did you know there is also a range of special-themed trains exploring particular regions? No two routes are the same. For example, some are overnight trains, others are anime-themed, and still others are focused on the sights en route.
Why travel on a slower overnight train? Well, travel isn’t just about the destination — it’s as much about the journey itself. In rushing from place to place on the fastest modes of transport possible, we sometimes miss out on the small, overlooked moments that make our travels so memorable. A more leisurely mode of travel, by contrast, creates space for you to really experience a place. Plus, it’s a lot of fun to fall asleep on a moving train and wake up somewhere new!
In this article, we’ll introduce the West Express Ginga, a stylish yet affordable overnight way to travel between Kyoto or Osaka and the Kinan region in Wakayama Prefecture. (The Ginga also runs separate train lines to the Sanyo and San’in regions depending on the season.) For 2023 to 2024, the Kinan route operates two round trips a week between 1 September and 3 March. (This service is suspended from late November to mid-January.) This means you’ll have a full day and a half to explore the southern part of this prefecture if you choose to do a round trip — or simply enjoy a journey out of the ordinary.
The journey itself is noteworthy, as this navy-blue train makes multiple stops at stations along the way so you can try local specialities and do some sightseeing. In the morning, the ocean views from the train are simply gorgeous. Best of all, you can use the Japan Rail Pass or the JR West Pass that both include destinations within the area for the West Express Ginga service under reserved seats on ordinary cars. And make sure you reserve seats in advance.
Riding the Stylish Night Train to Shingu
Your journey to Wakayama Prefecture begins after dinner, where you’ll depart at 9:15 p.m. from Kyoto Station (or alternatively at 10:19 p.m. from Osaka Station) on the West Express Ginga. On this train, passengers can choose from various seating styles and prices, from private compartments to women-only seats, making this an excellent choice for everyone from solo travellers to couples to families with children.
What sets this train apart from most traditional luxury liners is the provision of open areas in three carriages for passengers to socialise. It’s a great way to make new friends and connections!
En route, the train will make several stops. Don’t go straight to sleep, as at 11:42 p.m., the train will stop at Wakayama Station so passengers can alight and have midnight ramen at a local shop that’s a 3-minute walk from the station. Reservations aren’t required and it’s a fun, special way to mark the start of your train journey to the coast.
Arriving in Wakayama Prefecture at sunrise
©Wakayama Tourism Federation
In the morning at 6:50 a.m., the train will stop at Kushimoto Station where passengers can take a bus to see the famous Hashigui-iwa Rocks at sunrise. The time of sunrise varies depending on the season you visit. Reservations are not required. (A separate fee is required). Consisting of a straight, 850m-long line of around 40 unusually shaped rocks (almost teeth-like), it’s a natural work of art and looks particularly beautiful when silhouetted by the sun. The rocks were formed almost 15 million years ago when magma from underground volcanic activity had entered the rock layers’ cracks, cooled, and solidified. Its softer areas eventually eroded due to the sea waves, leaving the majestic natural formations behind. If you’ve reserved the Kushimoto-no-Megumi bento ahead of time, this is the time to enjoy it for breakfast!
You’ll depart Kushimoto and enjoy another leisurely train ride until the terminus. At specific departures, passengers will have the opportunity to head to the lounge space in the fourth car, where a local expert will give a short lecture on the area’s local history as well as the Kumano mandala.
Sightseeing on two wheels in Shingu City
The West Express Ginga pulls into Shingu Station, where you’ll have the entire day to explore the charming, compact city. Perhaps you’d like to orient yourself around the city, but with limited time, walking doesn’t seem incredibly efficient. On arrival, why not rent a bike from the Shingu City Tourist Information Center — conveniently located right across from the train station — and explore the area on two wheels to make the most of your day? There are four types of bikes to choose from, including electric bikes, and the most you’ll pay to rent them for a full day (between 9:00am and 5:00pm) is JPY3,000.
©Wakayama Tourism Federation
A great place to start your day is by visiting Jofuku Park, a short pedal away from the train station. Next on your agenda should be the three major shrines (also designated UNESCO World Heritage Sites) in the city — Kumano Hayatama Taisha Grand Shrine, Asuka-jinja Shrine, and Kamikura-jinja Shrine.
©Shingu City Tourist Association
If you’re feeling outdoorsy and you want to enjoy a beautiful view, then you might want to walk along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route on Koyazaka slope. The entire Kumano Kodo pilgrimage takes several weeks to walk, but this beginner-friendly section of Koyazaka slope takes less than 15 minutes to walk from the Koyazaka entrance to the viewpoint over Ojigahama Coast. Among all the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi routes, Koyazaka slope is the only place where you can see the sea. Beyond the lush scenery, there’s a wealth of fascinating stories associated with the Kumano Kodo, and it’s worth hiring a local guide to augment the experience of walking this route.
Conclusion
The overnight train is a wonderfully unique way to get to the Kinan area and try the activities there. For your next trip, consider venturing westwards to the southern part of Wakayama Prefecture. You might just fall in love with your new favourite place in Japan.
