Head south of Osaka to find the Kii Peninsula, Japan's spiritual corner covered by primeval forests and generously gifted by nature. We asked a Kii Peninsula local, Alena Eckelmann from Kii Monogatari, to take us on a journey through her home prefecture - Mie, and she went above and beyond to introduce us to her favourites. In the first part of the article, Alena talked about how to travel around Mie and shared her knowledge on the lesser dwelled pilgrimage routes which are a part of the ancient footpath called Kumano Kodo Iseji, a UNESCO site. This time round we're going to learn more about activities you can enjoy in the area including a fun waterfall stay and underground trolley train rides at a secluded onsen.
Stunning Long Beach with Unique Rocks
Shichiri-mihama, a 25 km long shingle beach, stretches out south of Kumano City. The Iseiji pilgrimage trail splits near here and one branch of the Iseiji route runs along this beach. This coastal trail, the Hamakaido leads to the Kumano Hayatama Taisha Shrine in Shingu City. The other branch of the Iseiji, the Hongudo, leads through the mountains to the Hongu Taisha in Hongu Town.
The beach is covered in pebbles and rocks, and it’s not for swimming but the views of the Kumano Sea and the mountains onshore are breath-taking. Some people search for white stones here and offer them to the Kami-sama, Japan’s Shinto deities at nearby shrines.
Onigajo, a rock formation that was named the “Devil’s Castle”, is located at the northern end of the Shichiri-mihama beach. A scenic walking trail leads around this volcanic stone weathered by the ocean.
Shishiiwa is another unique rock formation on this beach located further south. The 25 meters high rock is shaped like the head of a roaring lion. It is a popular photo spot, especially when the setting sun can be seen in the “mouth” of the lion.
Across from Road 42 that follows the beach, you come to the Hana-no-Iwaya, a sheer cliff which since ancient times has been worshiped as the gravesite of the female creator deity in Japanese mythology. Some believe that this is the oldest shrine in Japan.
Family Fun and Stay by the Waterfall
If you followed the Hamakaido, you might want to stay at the log cabins by the 30 meters high Hisetsu-no-taki Waterfall in Kiho.
This is actually a campsite and eight new cottages were added just recently. It’s a nice place to rest from your explorations and let the sound of the gushing waterfall send you to sleep. If you come in summer, you can play in the water at the base of the waterfall and enjoy a BBQ (rental equipment and ingredients on reservation). How about trying a Finnish tent sauna before jumping into the water or paddling below the waterfall in a rubber boat?
This is a real family place with many activities and experiences on offer such as bamboo lantern making, wood chopping and Amago fishing. You can also book a trip on a Santan sailing boat once used to cross the Kumano River which flows into the Pacific Ocean near here.
Most-scenic Rice Terrace in Japan
The Hongudo branch of the Iseiji pilgrimage trail leads through the mountains and passes by the Maruyama Senmaida located in the Kiwa area of Mie Prefecture.
That’s where you’ll find 1,340 cascading rice terraces from once over 2,200 that are cut into the hillside. After the decline of farming, a Preservation Society took on the protection of the fields and volunteers plant and harvest the rice. Anyone can adopt a rice paddy for the year for a donation of 30,000 yen and join the action.
Plots are of different sizes and shapes but generally they are quite small. They cannot easily be worked on with machinery and hence all planting and harvesting is done here the old-fashioned way, namely by hand.
Rice is planted in mid-May and harvested in September. The best time to visit the Maruyama Senmaida is just before the rice is planted when the fields are watered and the sun is reflected, or in July when the fresh green stalks sway in a soft breeze. This kind of sight has become quite rare in Japan. In fact, the Maruyama Senmaida is one of only 100 remaining large rice terraces in Japan, and maybe the most scenic one.
Secluded Hot Spring Stay with a Trolley Train
Iruka Onsen Hotel Seiryuusou is a ryokan - traditional Japanese inn, set in the small and quiet village of Iruka buried deep in the mountains of Mie Prefecture. There are Japanese style and Western style rooms and the onsen features an indoors and an outdoors bath overlooking the Kawa River.
There is free parking for those who drive. If you travel by train and bus, then catch the bus again after your hike across Tori-toge Pass and the Maruyama Senmaida. There are only few runs each day, so you need to check the bus timetable carefully.
Interestingly, this hot spring is connected to Yunokuchi Onsen, another onsen with accommodation in wooden cabins. The two onsen places lie on the opposite sides of a mountain and a 10 minute drive connects them. However, there is a better means of transportation here: the Toroko Densha. This is an old mining train the runs through a tunnel connecting the two sites.
It is not strange to have a mining train here because the Kiwa area was one of the main mining areas in Japan throughout the Edo Period (1603-1868) and extraction of gold, silver and copper was continued until recently.
The miniature train carriages make you feel like you are in Hobbiton and the 10 minute train ride is a fun activity for families. If you are not scared of dark tunnels, then you might also enjoy riding “Rail Mountain Bikes” that run along the same course in-between train departures.
Make sure to read the first part of the article to learn more about how to explore Mie like a local and what is her favourite pilgrimage route you can enjoy from one afternoon to days of spiritual rejuvenation.
