With so much land to cover in Japan and often so little time, it can sometimes feel bittersweet jumping between each destination in the itinerary and with the latest announcement from JR group of price increases, the pressure is on to get the most bang-for-your-buck. The journey from Tokyo to Kyoto alone is around 6 hours by bullet train - that's approximately 200 miles of unexplored Japanese nature and countryside! Luckily, Japan-rail expert Anna Udagawa takes us through some of the most scenic journeys along Japan's extensive train network, as well as some tips and tricks for getting the best front-row views and photo opportunities on-route, so you don't have to feel like you've completely missed out.
Japan’s mountainous and island geography means travelling by train can be very scenic.
One of the great things about trains in Japan is that most have large windows and provide a generous amount of space, which makes seeing the surrounding landscape as easy as can be! Several of the Limited Express (LEX) services are even called ‘Wide View’ in reference to their windows offering panoramic views. An added bonus on local trains is that you can sometimes experience the driver’s view straight ahead if the compartment blinds are left up. This applies even on the Yamanote Line in Tokyo and a few LEX services also offer passengers seats where the driver would normally be, giving a different perspective to any journey, as well as a cool photo opportunity of the tracks and scenery in front.
The view of Mount Fuji from the driver's window of the Minobu Line train.
If you don’t mind seeing everything at high speed and tunnels breaking up your view every now and again, the shinkansen (bullet train) is brilliant way to take in the Japanese countryside, with minimal time lost getting to your next destination.
Various rail companies in the JR (Japan Rail) Group also have ‘sightseeing’ trains in addition to their normal services. JR East refers to theirs as ‘Joyful trains’ and JR Kyushu as ‘D & S’ (Design & Story) trains. These provide a great travel experience as not only do the lines take you through some of the best landscapes Japan has to offer, the designs of these trains tend to feature local craft and skills. It’s worth keeping in mind, however, that these generally only operate during the weekends and holiday periods.
The majestic Mount Fuji
Honshu
The Tokaido shinkansen between Tokyo and Nagoya is where most people are focused on seeing Mt Fuji. The most reliable time of year to see the iconic mountain is in the winter months – and you need to be sitting on the right-hand side when going from Tokyo (and on the left if returning to Tokyo).
It is possible to start seeing Mt Fuji after Shin-Yokohama station, but it is a matter of spotting it in the gaps between the hills and the tea fields. If you are getting off at Mishima, you can even see Mt Fuji from the platform. The landscape between Mishima and Shizuoka is undoubtedly the most open and although there are a few smokestacks peppering the view, it is the best place to see Mount Fuji in its full splendour.
The Romancecar, a Odakyu Limited Express (LEX) train that connects Shinjuku, Tokyo, to Hakone, Enoshima and Kamakura
For closer views of Mt Fuji, I recommend taking the Wide View Fujikawa LEX from Shizuoka to Kofu station. The line from Shizuoka to Fuji station is near the sea so you also get fantastic coastal views. After Fuji station, the line starts going inland and curves round at times so you’ll be kept on your toes as the view of Mount Fuji swings from left, to right and then behind!
The Joetsu shinkansen operates between Tokyo and Niigata and because it traverses the Japan Alps, a lot of the time is spent hurtling from tunnel to tunnel. For a more scenic experience, getting off the shinkansen at Takasaki and taking a local train on the Joetsu mainline to Nagaoka is recommended. Although there are still some tunnels, your extra efforts will be rewarded with lush forest and river scenery, as well as a couple of ski resorts, otherwise hidden in the mountains. Get back on the shinkansen at Nagaoka to resume your journey to Niigata.
Nagoya is the starting point for some great rail journeys in Japan, particularly the route between Nagoya and Toyama via Takayama on the Hida LEX (originally the Wide View Hida LEX). After Unuma, the line follows the Hida River a lot of the way to Takayama; the track crosses from one side of the river to another so the views are good on both sides and include rice paddies as well as other rural scenes – and all the while getting closer to the mountains. From Takayama to Toyama, the line follows the Jinzu River through the Hida mountain range to the coast, with long scenic stretches between the tunnels.
The view of the Japanese countryside in winter along the Shinonoi Line between Nagoya and Matsumoto
Another journey is from Nagoya to Matsumoto and/or Nagano on the Shinano LEX, particularly after Nakatsugawa station. The line goes through the Kiso Valley, with the intermittent views of Mt Ontake being the highlight of this journey – for these it is best to sit on the left though there are good views on both sides.
Travelling between Nagoya and Shin-Osaka by shinkansen takes about 75 minutes, but train enthusiasts and lovers of off-the-beaten-track Japan might want to consider taking the LEX services around the Kii Peninsula. Yes, it would take at least eight hours between Nagoya and Shin-Osaka, however it is infinitely preferable in terms of scenery and there are some wonderful places, such as Kii-Katsuura and Shirahama, to stay the night to break up the journey. Taki station marks the start of hills, rivers, rice paddies and then tea fields. The line between Shingu and Nachi passes fishing villages but also more industrial areas. As you approach Kushimoto, you will see a group of igneous rocks called Hashigui-iwa that mysteriously form a straight line. The journey has great views of the Pacific Ocean but also goes inland at times for rural scenery.
The mysterious Hashigui-iwa rocks of Wakayama prefecture that stand in a straight line
The original ‘Joyful’ train was the Resort Shirakami which still operates on the Gono Line from Aomori to Akita – this route also includes both rural and coastal scenery and because it is a ‘sightseeing train’, it slows down where the scenery is most sublime and even stops at some landmarks, such as Senjojiki Rock Plateau, so passengers can get out and admire the view. Senjojiki is so named because of the way the rocks, flattened by erosion, were likened by a former Japanese Emperor to a thousand tatami mats.
A South Hokkaido Railway train oberlooking Mt. Hakodate over the sea
Hokkaido
Part of the reason why train journeys in Hokkaido are good for nature and train enthusiasts is that there are relatively few tunnels. As a result, Hokkaido offers some magnificent scenery particularly the journey from Abashiri to Kushiro. Part of the line runs through Akan-Mashu National Park and, later on, the less well-known Kushiro-Shitsugen National Park. The observation platform at Kitahama station is a great place for birdwatchers and the line passes through marshland with lots of unspoilt scenery but also forested areas.
Another wonderful journey is from Oshamambe to Sapporo via Otaru. Keep in mind, however, that the line from Oshamambe to Otaru may be closed when the Hokkaido shinkansen extension to Sapporo opens by 2030, so it is worth planning a trip there soon.
Kyushu
The Ibusuki-no-Tamatebako (also known as Ibutama) D&S train from Kagoshima to Ibusuki travels right by the sea round Kagoshima Bay and can provide stunning views of the volcano on Sakurajima. You can also get views of Sakurajima travelling east on the Kirishima LEX from Kagoshima to Miyazaki; the highlights are the first part of the journey round Kagoshima Bay (sit on the right-hand side) and then later on passing Mt Kirishima (sit on the left side if possible), from which the train takes its name.
Shikoku
The Yodo Line (Kubokawa to Uwajima) has some ‘hobby’ trains. Similar to sightseeing trains, these local trains have interesting designs – for example, one looks like the original (series-0) shinkansen and another is decorated with sea-life and prehistoric creatures. This line is one of the most scenic and rural in Shikoku.
An inside view of the Yosan Line train coastal route via Iyo-Nagahama station © Kristina Watanabe
The Yosan Line (Takamatsu to Uwajima) mostly runs inland but the original line between Iyo-Shi and Iyo-Ozu goes via the coast and is far more scenic; Shimonada station is right by the sea.
JR Shikoku also operates some luxury sightseeing trains which are free for holders of a Japan Rail Pass. The Iyonada Monogatari operates on the coastal route between Yawatahama and Matsuyama; the Toki No Yoake No Monogatari between Kochi and Kubokawa and the Shikoku Mannaka Sennen Monogatari between Tadotsu and Oboke or from Kotohira to Oboke.
Private lines
It must be said that there are also some wonderful routes on private lines, particularly from Hakone-Yumoto to Gora on the Hakone Tozan Railway, the only full-scale mountain railway in Japan. In fact, the whole journey from Odawara to Hakone-machi/Moto Hakone, no matter what mode of transportation (mountain railway, cable car, funicular railway, replica 17th-/18th-century ship) offers fabulous scenery and there are views of Mt Fuji as you approach Owakudani on the Hakone Ropeway (cable car).
The other main railway line with fantastic views of Mt Fuji in good weather is the Fujikyuko Line from Otsuki to Kawaguchi-ko. Otsuki can be reached on a JR LEX train from either Shinjuku (Tokyo), or Shizuoka/Kofu.
Many like to visit Koya-san to stay in a temple; that is a great experience in itself but the scenery on the journey there by train from Hashimoto to Gokukurabashi and then by funicular railway to Koya-san is a real bonus.
The northern Japanese Alps
The Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route takes you through the northern Japanese Alps from Toyama to Shinano-Omachi on a wide variety of transport and with a tiny amount of walking. The route is only open between April and late November and always depends on the weather but offers possibly one of the best journeys in Japan in terms of scenery.
Anna Udagawa is the co-author of 'Japan by Rail', an extensive Japan railway travel guide.
