Oita Prefecture, which is located on the eastern part of the southern island of Kyushu, is a wonderfully unique prefecture, filled to the brim with rare natural formations and some of the best onsens. Whether you are looking for vast scenic views, or just keen to relax and take it easy in some onsen water, this is the place for you.
Beppu City
Our adventure in Oita begins in Beppu City. Best reached by limited express train from a variety of locations in Kyushu, this city is known to have 8 distinct onsen towns within it. They are all accessible by public transportation and have their own unique onsens and charm. Kannawa Onsen has numerous jets of steam known as ‘yukemuri’ erupting from all around the houses and streets. And when we say all over, we mean all over! You’ll notice steam coming from the ground as well, make sure to be careful as it can be quite hot at times. Walking around the area, especially at night, will make you feel as if you’ve been transported to a different world.
Steam rising from the city
While you are in the onsen towns, make sure to also try some of the delicious food. Onsen tamago, or eggs that are cooked with onsen water. You can also go for jigokumushi, where you assemble a large plate of vegetables (you can include meat as well), and steam them all with onsen steam. When they come out from the steam, make sure to enjoy the food with some ponzu and soy sauce. Also available for a try is the actual onsen water. You can grab a cup and give the onsen water a sip, taking in its unique flavour. An additional stop to add to your itinerary within Beppu is the Jigoku Onsen Museum, where you have the opportunity to follow a drop of water over 50 years as it turns into onsen water.
Food being prepped for steaming, credit Tourism Oita
However, don't forget one of the most popular attractions in the city, the Beppu Hells. An assortment of 7 different hot springs that show the geothermal features of the area, they all have distinctly unique features. Try visiting Kamado Jigoku, where you can get up close to mud pots, or Umi Jigoku, featuring a massive sea blue pool constantly emitting thick clouds of steam.
Mudpots at some of Beppu's hells
Yufuin
Continuing on with our onsen adventure, we can make our way over to Yufuin. Located relatively nearby Beppu, this onsen town has, you guessed it, more onsens! Set in the shadow of Mt. Yufu, this tranquil area is perfect for a little relaxation slightly more inland. Easier to reach by bus than train, you can stay a night at a hotel or a traditional inn, and take your time exploring the area. Mt. Yufu, which sits at 1583 metres tall, is also known as ‘Bungo Fuji’, and for the mountain climbing enthusiasts there are trails leading up and down the mountain.
Yufuin
If you are keen for less steep adventures, check out Lake Kinrin, known to have spectacular fog formations due to its warm water temperatures. Especially in wintertime, this makes for a moving sight. Take a walk around the lake grounds, admiring the scenery no matter the season, and be sure to pop into some of the local shops and museums. Another spot is near Mt. Yufu, the Tsukahara Highlands. Filled with natural scenery and starry nights, it is the perfect place to take a bicycle and have a leisurely trip around, you might even see some more geothermal activity!
Lake Kinrin, credit Tourism Oita
Usa Jingu
We now head a bit more to the north, to the area of Usa. Located in the city is the revered Usa Jingu, one of the top shrines in the country. Enshrining the deity Hachiman, Usa Jingu is known to be the first shrine dedicated to Hachiman, and also the first shrine to start using ‘mikoshi’ or portable shrines. The architecture is stunning, with stark red pillars and two distinct buildings for the gods to use during the day and night. Dating all the way back to the 8th century, a stroll through the grounds of Usa Jingu will transport you back all the way to the Nara Period. An interesting fact is that there used to be a temple on the grounds as well, known as Miryoku-Ji. Although demolished when Shinto and Buddhism were separated in the Meiji Period, there are still some stone foundations remaining. Within the grounds of the shrine there is also a treasure house, pond, and a beautiful red covered bridge. Make sure to collect a stamp book and various charms on your way out to commemorate your visit!
Usa Jingu, credit Tourism Oita
Onta Yaki
Kyushu is very well known for its large variety of pottery and other ceramics. Oita Prefecture is no different, famous for its distinct Onta Yaki pottery. Characterised by geometric features, these pieces had their start in this small village in Oita back in the early 18th century. The Onta Yaki Pottery village is a small collection of artisans all creating beautiful Onta Yaki pottery, when you arrive in the village you’ll hear the distinct sound of the creation process, the hammers turning rock into clay powder. Onta Yaki was popularised through the Mingei Movement, a time during the 20th century where ordinary and everyday use objects were given special focus. The village potters have their own shops as well, selling the finely crafted goods which make for perfect souvenirs and utensils for home.
A variety of Onta Yaki ware, credit Tourism Oita
Stone Buddhas of Usuki
Heading from the inland areas we find ourselves back near the coast, in the town of Usuki. Known for its historic castle ruins, the town also has a plethora of stone Buddhas, thought to have been carved in the 12th century. Called ‘magaibutsu’ in Japanese and totalling more than 60 statues, they are sculpted directly into a cliffside, making them part of the cliff.
The stone buddhas, credit Tourism Oita
Nearby Mangatsu-Ji temple offers another serene spot, with its own unique statues guarding the entrance. Usuki is easily accessible by train from Oita Station, taking less than 30 minutes by limited express train. The town has an interesting history, as it took in a Dutch ship that came ashore during the Edo Period. It was historically a centre of trade for Kyushu, connecting it with China and the western world.
Kunisaki Peninsula
We stay on the eastern coast of Oita for our next destination, the Kunisaki Peninsula. Filled with beautiful natural beaches and deeply historical temples, it makes for a wonderful spot to visit as part of a trip to Oita. Fukiji Temple is thought to have been built in the 8th century, and is known as the oldest wooden structure in all of Kyushu. The peacefulness can be felt when visiting the building, as its beauty is in its simplicity. One of three Amida Buddhist temples, the other two are Chuson-Ji in Iwate Prefecture and Byodoin in Kyoto. Make a visit in autumn to see the grounds covered in vibrant yellow leaves, making the experience all the more serene.
Fukiji, credit Tourism Oita
Near the coastal town of Bungotakada, you can find two exciting spots. One is the Showa no Machi, built in the style of the 1950s. Evoking nostalgia for townscapes of history, walking through this area will give you the opportunity to experience a little taste of life in 1950s Japan. You can also head to the Matama Coast as the sun begins to set to get a top view of the beautiful orange hues. It is also ranked as one of Japan’s Top 100 Sunsets. Besides admiring the sunset, you can also paddleboard and fish for razor clams in the area. With the amount of coastline on the peninsula, you can explore for as long as you would like, you can even take a quick ferry across the Seto Inland Sea to the island of Himeshima.
The Matama Coast, credit Tourism Oita
Nakatsu
The last stop of our quick trip to Oita Prefecture is the city of Nakatsu. Found near the border with Fukuoka Prefecture, Nakatsu has a historic castle site in addition to stunning gorges and natural scenery. Nakatsu Castle dates back to before the 17th century, and is known as one of the top 3 castles on the sea. From the top of the castle you can get some great views of the city, and the rest of the castle is filled with a museum and other information detailing its history over the years. The Yabakei Gorge, located to the south of the city, was carved by the Yamakuni River, and features unique rock formations overlooking a valley. Hitome Hakkei is a viewspot in the gorge, allowing the viewer to see 8 different rock formations at once. If you visit in springtime or autumn, you’ll be greatly rewarded with magnificent views of autumn foliage and new leaves.
The Hitome Hakkei, credit Tourism Oita
Returning back to the city, the residence of Fukuzawa Yukichi is found near Nakatsu Castle. Now with an adjacent museum, you can visit and learn all about the man previously found on the 10,000 yen bill. Known for founding Keio University and participating in the Japanese Embassy to the United States in 1860, he played a key role in the reformation of Japanese in the late Edo and early Meiji Periods.
The Fukuzawa Yukichi residence, credit Tourism Oita
The Onsen Prefecture is a perfect name for Oita, with its plethora of hot springs and thermal features. However be sure not to forget that there is so much else to see! From the historic temple of Fukiji to buying some unique Onta Yaki pottery, Oita is a prime spot in Kyushu for a relaxing yet engaging trip.
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