Gretchen first came to the northern Akita prefecture as an English teacher and that's when she met her husband who is a Zen priest! They've been running their family temple Dairyuji for years so we had to ask Gretchen about what goes on behind the scenes of Japanese temples. She shared some ideas for an Oga Peninsula road trip and told us all about the different experiences you can enjoy at Dairyuji!
Hi, thanks for talking to us today. Could you tell us a little about yourself?
Hello! Thank you for the invitation. I am Gretchen Miura. I live on the Oga peninsula in Akita, which is in Tohoku, the northern part of Japan. My husband is a Zen priest so we run our family temple Dairyuji together. Meaning Big Dragon, the temple has a long history rooted in the rural community of agriculture and fishing. I run workshops, retreats and events at the temple in English and Japanese, as well as help with temple ceremonies for our members.
How did you end up living in the northern Akita?
Initially, I came to Akita as an English teacher for the JET Program. I met my husband during this time and after moving back to America returned to Akita a few years later.
What was the biggest culture shock for you when you moved into your family temple?
It sounds obvious now, but I guess I was shocked by the formality and abundance of ceremonies at the temple. I knew very little of Japanese culture in general, so there was a sharp learning curve. Luckily, the temple`s members were welcoming and gracious, often saying they too didn`t understand everything about the temple. This allowed me to relax and grow at my own pace and in my own way. I still have many things to learn, but appreciate the role of the temple in the community and feel honored to be part of it.
What part of temple life do you enjoy the most?
Once you understand the flow of the temple`s rhythm, there is a tremendous amount of freedom and flexibility. I am able to contribute in creative ways which is so meaningful to me. I also love the energy of the temple and the surrounding woods. There is a feeling of belonging to something eternal - or at least continuous, which helps me feel grounded.
What experiences do you offer at Dairyuji?
The temple is open daily to visitors, no reservations necessary.
You can enjoy walking around the temple grounds, learn about Zen and the traditional buildings, as well as relax by the water garden. We also offer mindfulness workshops, weekend retreats, morning zazen meditation and shakyo (sutra tracing). We host regular events including art shows, music performances and community markets.
Can you recommend any local destinations to first-time visitors to the Oga peninsula?
Yes! Oga peninsula is an absolutely wonderful place to visit!
If arriving by train, the station area has a local food market at the michi-no eki, a sake brewery and a stylish hot dog stand. You can also walk to the nearby Marina which has beautiful views of the sea and distant mountains. On a clear day you can see Chokai-san, called the Fuji of the north. Of course, I recommend visiting Dairyuji temple which is about an 8 minute walk from the station. En route to Dairyuji, there is Fukushima Gourmet Deli that has delicious “kuroke” that you can eat hot as a snack.
If arriving by car, I highly recommend driving up the coast line. There are rugged drop offs with spectacular views and places to stop along the way. You will get a real sense of the local fishing communities. Nyudozaki Cape has a charming lighthouse, breath-taking scenery and one of the only places to eat ishi-yaki nabe soup. On the way back, it is best to cut through the peninsula on the Namahage line road. Here you can see the farming culture of Oga. The Namahage Museum is a must stop to understand this famous folklore. Just five minutes from the museum is Ninigi Cafe, a renovated farmhouse that serves coffee and lunch with a relaxed and cool ambiance. Kampusan Mountain is also definitely worth going to with 360 degree views of the peninsula.
Thank you!
You can find out more about Dairyuji from their website, Instagram, and Facebook!
