Julie Caplin is addicted to travel and good food. She's on a constant hunt for the perfect gin and in between regular gin tastings, she writes novels inspired by the many cities she's explored over the years. Formerly a PR director, Julie had to swan around Europe taking top food and drink writers on press trips, sampling the gastronomic delights of various cities around the world. It was a tough job but someone had to do it.
These trips have provided the inspiration and settings for the Romantic Escapes series which include The Little Cafe in Copenhagen, The Little Brooklyn Bakery, The Little Paris Patisserie, The Northern Lights Lodge and The Secret Cove in Croatia. Now, Julie is setting the scene under the bright lights of Tokyo, a fast-paced city of some 13 million people. But before we set off on this latest feel-good romantic comedy, let's learn a little about the city in question from the author herself. Take it away Julie!
How to plan a trip to Tokyo
With only a few days available in Tokyo to garner information and inspiration for my next book, THE LITTLE TEASHOP IN TOKYO, I need to maximise my time there. So well before my trip, I start planning and researching, trying to decide what I need to know before I go.
One look at the Tokyo transport map before I've even booked the plane tickets and already I'm hyperventilating at the prospect of navigating public transport in one of the world's busiest cities. The figures are mind boggling: eight million people commute on a working day in Tokyo. On top of this, I'm worrying about being able to read the signs and being able to ask for help if I get lost.
Added to this the image of Tokyo that plays in my head is akin to scenes in Bladerunner: hyperactive, frentic and neon-filled with futuristic buildings, busy streets and avant-garde fashion.
Travelling around
My first top tip is to speak to someone who has been to Tokyo. My friend Alan a regular visitor to Tokyo, immediately reassures me and tells me that for central Tokyo, all you need to do is master the circular Yamanote train line, which is the equivalent of London's Circle Line and that I should avoid peak commuter times, which any sensible tourist does in every capital city the world over.
The Yamanote Line, which runs every two to four minutes, connects the major city centres of Tokyo and is a particularly useful starting point for getting around the city as many of the station's on this circular line are perfect gateways to iconic tourist destinations. There's Shinjuku, home to Japan's busiest train station and a cosmopolitan business, entertainment and shopping area; Shibuya where you'll find the iconic Shibuya Crossing with its neon lights, busy shops and famous road intersection frequently pictured in images of Tokyo; Yoyogi Station is gateway to Yoyogi Park and the very beautiful Meiji Shrine; whilst Ueno Station lies close to Ueno Park which is an absolute must for those looking to partake in a little 'Hanami' (花見, cherry blossom viewing) in spring.
According to my young friend, Harley, who has just returned from a year-long sojourn in the suburbs of Tokyo, the whole transport system is actually very easy to navigate and oh my goodness, so efficient. Trains run on time to the second and they're clean and tidy. She does give me a few tips about local etiquette. For one, avoid eating and drinking on the subway, and don't talk loudly, especially on your mobile phone. All my worries about not being able to read the signs are assauged when I hear that from the minute you land at Haneda or Narita International Airports, there is plenty of tourist friendly signage.
You can buy tickets for travel at the subways but if you're planning to see more of Japan, buying a Japan Rail (JR) pass, which is only available to overseas tourists, is also a very smart move as it is valid on not only the Yamanote Line but also the vast majority of famous 'Shinkansen' high-speed bullet trains that connect Tokyo to a number of other cities in a matter of hours.
What to do
So the next part of my research is trying to decide what on earth I'm going to visit; I only have a couple of days in the city before I head off on a whistle stop tour to see a tiny snapshot of the rest of the country. From my books and internet forays I've quickly realised that Japan is a country of remarkable contrasts and I'm keen to see its traditional, cultural sides, as well as its astonishing technological modernity.
I'm going to be there from mid-March until April which, of course, is pink cherry blossom viewing season. Until I did my research, I hadn't realised what a big deal this is or how lucky I am to be visiting at this time.
Appreciation of the beauty of the natural world is integral to Japanese culture but there's also a subtle additional layer, where there is an appreciation of the ephemeral nature of natural beauty, particularly the cherry blossom, called 'Sakura' (桜) in Japanese, which makes a brief two week appearance. This year the season is predicted to start up to nine days earlier because of the mild winter; there's a handy cherry blossom forecast you can visit which gives you the low down on where and when to see the sakura throughout Japan - remember, the season starts and ends at different times depending on where you are in the country!
There are dozens of places both within Tokyo and just outside its concrete confines to see the cherry blossoms: click here for some ideas. As it's on the Yamanote Line and within easy reach of where I'm planning to stay, I put Ueno Park at the top of my list. With over 800 cherry trees, a lake and endless tree-lined paths, it's a top spot for Hanami. I've been warned that it does get very crowded with tourists and locals, many picnicking under the blousy petal-laden trees, but you'll never see anything quite like it anywhere else in the world.
I quickly realise during my cherry blossom research that my fears of Tokyo being a futuristic world of skyscrapers and neon are a long way from reality. Tokyo is a city of dramatic contrasts and it has some wonderful outdoor spaces, a wealth of gardens and parks including: the Koishikawa Korakuen Garden, Tokyo's oldest established garden, which features miniature landscapes, bridges and an Iris garden; the Imperial Palace Gardens; and Shinjuku Gyoen, noted for its huge variety. I'm already torn as to which one will make my ever-growing list.
But you'll also find the modern and avant-garde in the noted Canadian Embassy Garden created by leading Japanese garden designer, Masuno Shunmyo, a hanging stone garden made completely of stone symbolising the different elements of the landscape. In stark contrast is the Rikugi-en Garden, often considered one of Japan's most beautiful gardens created at the turn of the 18th century. It's named after the six principles of oriental poetry and features eighty-eight scenes from famous poems.
Of course I want to see the Tokyo of the films, TV and pop culture; Shibuya and Shinjuku as featured in Lost in Translation, not to mention that whacky Robot Restaurant that I just have to go to. A recent Swiss friend showed me his photos of laser and light shows, outrageously dressed performers and, of course, over the top robots - suffice to say it's topped my list as a must-see.
Again looking for contrasts, I decide to include the area of Yanaka, only a short walk from Ueno Park so I can fit it in on the same day. This small traditional area is full of temples and shrines, many of which were relocated to the district after a fire in the 17th century devastated much of the city's downtown area. It's full of free art galleries, soba restaurants, interesting shops, such as Isetatsu which makes and sells decorative handmade paper, small coffee bars and the Yanaka cemetery where many of Tokyo's luninaries are buried. It's been described as an oasis of calm compared to the metropolitan feel of much of the rest of the city.
So I've got the outdoors-nature bit of my trip planned but my friend Alison, who's recently returned from Tokyo tells me that among the huge range of museums from which to choose, teamLab Borderless is an absolute must. It's a digital artwork exhibition that is both mindboggling, clever and astounding. When I look it up, it does indeed sound fascinating and zooms straight to the top of my top tourist destinations along with the Edo Tokyo Museum, the outside of which looks a little like something out of Star Wars. It traces the history of the city from its origins as a fishing village through to the current day with lots of displays and fantastic models. There are also dozens of other museums which I look up and I'm spoiled for choice: art, photography, traditional crafts and advertising. Tokyo really does offer something for everyone.
My list is already perilously full but one thing that everyone tells me over and over again, is that I'm assured of a warm welcome becuase the Japanese are renowned for their hospitality. I'm looking forward to my trip and to exploring what I can see of this amazing city. If you're planning a trip to Japan, you've already come to one of the best starting points with the JNTO website providing just about everything you could possibly wish to know.
A Little Teashop in Tokyo
For travel blogger Fiona, visiting Japan has always been top of her bucket list, so when she wins an all-expenses paid trip, it looks like her dreams are coming true; that is, until she arrives in vibrant, neon-drenched Tokyo and comes face-to-face with the man who broke her heart ten years ago, gorgeous photographer Gabe. Fiona can't help but remember the heartache of their last meeting but it's not long before the Japanese art of contentment and the wonderful locals she meets work their magic.
Amidst the temples and clouds of soft pink cherry blossoms, Fiona and Gabe start to see life - and each other - differently...
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