Tokushima Prefecture is another of the four prefectures that make up the island of Shikoku. Shikoku is the smallest of the main four islands of Japan, but it is filled with undiscovered and lesser travelled areas. Tokushima itself has stunning nature, deeply historic festivals, and a huge selection of experiences that will leave you wanting to visit again and again.
Awa Odori
One of the most famous cultural events of Tokushima is Awa Odori. Held in the middle of August, more than 1 million people attend this huge event of dance and culture in Tokushima City. Dating back more than 400 years, people don unique outfits and dance throughout the streets of the city, with various stalls and other food and drink options available. One theory as to the history of the festival is that when Hachisuka Iemasa completed building nearby Tokushima Castle, the locals all gathered for a large party and gathering, and ended up dancing the night away after picking up various instruments. Groups of dancers are known as ‘ren’, and you’ll see them parading down the streets, occasionally wearing traditional ‘amigasa’ hats. You are also very welcome yourself to join the dancers, as there are some groups that accept people that are keen to participate.
If you are not able to visit Tokushima during the Awa Odori festival, as the time period can get quite busy, you can always visit the Awa Odori Kaikan. This hall has all the information you’ll need to learn about the Awa Odori festival, and also gives you the chance to watch daily performances. Similar to the actual festival in August, you have the chance to try out some of the dance moves once you watch a performance.
Iya Valley
If you are looking for a place that is truly off the beaten path, then the Iya Valley is the place for you. Located in the secluded western area of Tokushima Prefecture, the valley has some of the best natural scenery in the country. You can access the valley and surrounding areas by bus or car, but narrow mountain roads can make access difficult at times. The remoteness is exemplified by the fact that the area was historically used as a hideout for members of the Taira clan after suffering a defeat to the Minamoto clan in the 12th century.
One of the main draws of the Iya Valley are the vine bridges, or ‘kazurabashi’. Weaved from vines, and spanning the many waterways of the valley, these bridges were essential tools to locals living in the area, enabling them to cross to and from settlements. There are only 3 bridges remaining, and the largest, Iya Kazurabashi, is 45 metres in length spanning the Iya River.
Nearby Oboke and Koboke canyons are also well worth a visit, as you can take a boat through their rivers, or even try whitewater rafting. With onsens and other traditional accommodations in the area, staying a night to get a full experience of the local culture is highly recommended.
Naruto Whirlpools
Another one of Tokushima’s popular activities is to visit the city of Naruto, located on the northeastern coast of the prefecture. With a name that reminds one of the ever popular anime, this popular area has some of the most unique water features in the country. As a result of the Seto Inland Sea colliding with the Kii Channel, large whirlpools form in the Naruto Strait. These pools can grow to 20 metres in diameter, and there are a variety of ways to view them. One of the best ways is to get up close is to take a sightseeing cruise, with some boats even having glass floors to allow even better sights of the whirlpools. You can also cross the Onaruto Bridge to get a bird’s eye view of the whirlpools, as the observation deck from the bridge also has glass floors.
Tebajima
We know that Shikoku has a huge amount of islands off its coast. From the many famous art islands in the Seto Inland Sea, there is an abundance of islands to visit if you make your way to Tokushima. One such quaint island is Tebajima, located off the southern coast of the prefecture, near the town of Mugi. Only a 15 minute ferry ride from the mainland, this tiny island is a perfect escape to small town Japan. A relatively small island, there is a short course to visit its lighthouse, and views from the island extend toward Wakayama Prefecture and the Muroto Peninsula of neighbouring Kochi Prefecture. The town is known to have preserved a sense of ‘Showa-kan’, a feeling of being in the Showa Period, as it has not had many developments since that time. Walking through the forests can make you think that you’ve been transported to a tropical rainforest, and it also hosted an art exhibition in 2013.
Ryozenji
We finish our trip in Tokushima, at a place that is also the beginning of a great journey. Ryozenji, found slightly inland off the eastern coast near Naruto, is the first temple of the 88 temple Shikoku pilgrimage. Pilgrims start from Ryozenji, trekking across the entire island, over 1200 kilometres in total, collecting shrine seals and other goods along the way. A journey of spiritual discovery, it is becoming more and more popular to undertake the pilgrimage using newer forms of transportation, such as car or taxi.
Ryozenji dates back to the 8th century, and has a large wooden gate, gardens, a pond, and traditional pilgrim clothing and items available to purchase. Its place as the starting point of the Shikoku pilgrimage dates back to 1687, and it is also sometimes known as the final stop of the pilgrimage, where people who completed all 88, revisit the first to give their thanks. People also make their way from Shikoku to nearby Wakayama Prefecture to continue their pilgrimage at Koyasan, another famous route and where the monk Kukai, who is thought to have established the original Shikoku Pilgrimage, is buried. The temple is steeped in history and you are bound to see many pilgrims beginning and ending their journeys when you visit. Don't forget to check out some of the other pilgrimage temples in the prefecture, as there are 23 temples in total in Tokushima.
Tokushima, and the rest of Shikoku, have much to offer for those looking for adventure and other experiences off the beaten path. Whether you are interested in dancing the night away during Awa Odori, or beginning a 1200 kilometre pilgrimage across the island, Tokushima is the place to be.
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