The traditional downtown streets of Udatsu village in Tokushima prefecture
After almost two and a half years, Japan opened up its borders to visa-free international travel on the 11th October 2022 - the news we were all waiting for. Now in 2023, travel is firmly back on the menu and with the complete lift of all COVID-19 border measures on and after 29th April - meaning neither vaccination nor negative test certificates will be required to enter Japan - it really does feel like normal times again. It's still worth keeping a couple of things in mind while you prepare for your Japan trip here but, in the meantime, let's take a general look at some of the upgrades, updates and travel news from over the past few years.
On Air Travel
Before we dive into life on the other side, there is of course the question of getting there. With borders now back open, airlines have followed suit by bolstering the number of international flights to meet the anticipated rebound in air traffic, but there are still a couple of things to bear in mind when booking.
The misty Tokyo skyline
The first is that, whilst airlines have indeed announced resuming or increasing their existing international flights to Japan, it is likely that these changes will be seen over the coming months. Japan Airlines are due to be back to running twice daily direct flight operations from London to Tokyo as of spring, whilst ANA up their number of direct Tokyo flights more gradually. British Airways have now resumed direct flights between London and Haneda (Tokyo) as of mid-November (the return of their direct flights into Osaka is currently not confirmed) whilst, for Finnair, the indirect Helsinki routes which land directly into Fukuoka, New Chitose (Sapporo), Nagoya are more likely to come back online later down the line, adding to their Tokyo flights. which are currently operational, and their Kansai International Airport (Osaka) flights which are due back from the end of March 2023.
Furthermore, with the ongoing conflict in Ukraine, longer flight times are to be expected as airlines reroute to avoid Russian airspace. Extended flight times also means that availability for checked baggage and seating is slightly more limited in comparison to before, but paradoxically does allow a little more time to adjust to the inevitable jetlag on the other end.
Watch this space for further updates!
A miniature airplane at Tobu World Square miniature village
On New Openings
From theme park expansions to a 3D billboard of an adorable Shiba Inu, Japan’s new and exciting openings and attractions over the last two years have been teased to us through morsels found only on social media and news outlets. Most of these developments were in anticipation of a dramatic spike in visitor numbers in the lead-up to the Tokyo 2020 Olympics. But – spoiler alert – the pandemic! Yet to be enjoyed by international travellers since their unveiling, it’s high-time these fresh-out-of-the-oven attractions felt some of the love.
Fresh tracks on the ski slopes of North Japan
With winter just around the corner, it's also the perfect chance to catch up on all the latest developments in Japan’s ski and snowboard scene. Niseko in Hokkaido, world-famous for its powder snow and ski resorts, has added an impressive number of new slopes, gondolas and luxury accommodations to its healthy roster over the last three seasons but for more information on hotel openings and new attractions over the past couple of years, check here.
On Money
Having hit a quarter-century low against the US Dollar, the drop in the Japanese Yen has meant that, while flight prices might look heftier, the costs on the ground are currently much more attractive.
The tranquil sightseeing cafe at Ryousora Terrace
Many are surprised to discover that Japan, a country at the cutting-edge of technology, historically has operated heavily as a cash-based society. Moving towards cashless was long the goal of the Japanese government, but it was the pandemic that really triggered the move in favour of cash-free transactions. Although cash may still be preferred at the majority of places, there are now a number of different payment options available that are not only visitor-friendly but also don’t require you to whip out wads of bills or rummage through coins.
Suica cards, initially the Japanese equivalent of an Oyster card for intercity travel, can now be used as payment at convenience stores, vending machines and even shops and restaurants. This prepaid e-money card can be bought in Japan or online. Google Pay and Apple Pay can also be used more widely, as a complement to the trusty Suica.
Onigiri rice balls served on a plate
On Food
Repeat travellers to Japan will notice a couple of different things when it comes to eating out, particularly within the city. You might, for example, pick up on an increase in the number of food trucks dotting city streets or the flocks of food delivery cyclists with their box-shaped backpacks. Local covid restrictions meant that restaurants, izakayas (Japanese bars) and cafes had to adapt, with many opting to bring food to their customers through food delivery services or leasing out mobile trucks. This means that takeaway options are more far-reaching and accessible for those looking to grab a quick bite or for a calm evening in after a long day of exploring.
A traditional home-cooked meal of kiritanpo in Akita prefecture
Previously an unheard of phenomenon, some restaurants have even been offering customers doggy bags and takeaway boxes to bring home leftover food. Though something you wouldn’t hesitate to ask about in a UK restaurant, it was less common in Japan pre-pandemic.
When hunting for the next meal on your travels, it is also worth taking a break from the typical touristy pockets of the city and venturing into less-crowded but just as intriguing ‘business areas’. In Tokyo, these include Shinbashi, Hamamatsucho and Akasaka. The rise of remote working has resulted in the food spots in these districts seeing a substantial decrease in their usual ‘salaryman’ customer base. Not only will you be supporting smaller businesses, but these areas tend to be home to some of the most rustic traditional izakayas and restaurants that have been keeping the nation's workforce fed for decades, and can be great for those who want to experience life as a local.
Hungry visitors queue up for food at a Japanese 'yatai' food stall
On Masks
To mask or not to mask; that is the question. Although it is not presently mandatory to wear masks in Japan, we can expect that the general consensus will continue to be to mask up, especially when indoors or on public transport, for a little while yet. This may change slightly as official mask advisories are removed by the government on March 13th 2023.
Wearing masks has long been a cultural norm in Japan, even before the pandemic, and is a testament to the Japanese cultural value of being considerate to others. Masks are worn for reasons ranging from having a cold and not wanting to pass the virus onto others, to feeling a bit gross and groggy and not wanting to show your face today, but is also translated in the country’s celebrated high-levels of hospitality and customer service.
A masked artisan works on a design at a yuzen dying experience centre
This does mean that the expectation will be for visitors to respect these local customs for the time being. Think of the UK one year ago when we too were cautiously coming out of our own lockdown bubbles - that will be where Japan may be at for a little while longer.
We therefore recommend always having a mask at the ready in case individual indoor venues politely ask for your cooperation, as well as following the lead of locals and reading the room when deciding to wear one or not!
A geisha performance experience, served with a meal
Planning on heading to Japan as soon as borders open? Check out our round-up of what's hot to visit in 2023 here, with all the inspiration for your upcoming trip.
